Jeff and I figured this information would be of interest to our viewers and I have listed the speaking notes below. Please keep in mind that adjusting water is a relatively advanced brewing technique. Brewers who are starting out should focus on sanitation and fermentation control first before working with water, because these elements make a much greater impact on brewing quality and consistency.
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1. Why should you care about changing your brewing water?
o You can make excellent beer without worrying about it at all
o However, water adjustments can help fine tune your beers and make good beer even better
o Understanding how your mash works, for all-grain brewers can be important
o Many people have trouble brewing beers at ends of the color spectrum, which can be due to water hardness (stouts versus pilsners)
2. Where to start?
o If you are an extract brewer, you will likely want to do nothing, or if you have hard water, dilute with reverse osmosis (RO) water
§ Extract already contains concentrated ions from when the wort was concentrated
§ It is difficult to know what the concentrations of those ions are, so you certainly don’t want to add more through brewing salts
§ Trial and error, along with getting used to a specific brand of extract, is your best way forward
o Assuming you brew all-grain, your first step is figuring out your waters brewing ion concentration
§ Without knowing this, it is hard to proscribe anything more than a generic recommendations (use 1 tsp of gypsum for hoppy beer)
§ Your water report may provide the key information
§ I got a report from Ward Laboratories for $16.50
· Realize that your water chemistry will likely change over the year
§ Key ions include: Calcium, Magnesium, Sulfate, Chloride, Residual Alkalinity (RA) (from Bicarbonate or Total Alkalinity)
· RA acts as a buffer to neutralize the acidic nature of mashes that use darker roasted malts
o Figure out some key elements of the beer you are trying to brew, including its color and whether it is hoppy, neutral, or malty
3. Brewing salts
o In general, we adjust brewing water for ion concentration using brewing salts
§ Salts are cheap and they are an easy method of transferring the ion we want
§ You can also use acids or bases directly, but this is less common
o Chalk (calcium carbonate – CaCO3) – used mostly for calcium – can reduce RA
o Gypsum (calcium sulfate – CaSO4) – used for sulfate – can reduce RA
o Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) – used for chloride – can reduce RA
o Epsom Salts (magnesium sulfate – MgSO4) – used for magnesium
o Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3) – used for RA
o Other products, like Five Star’s 5.2 stabilizer, can provide basic buffering capacity to the mash
4. Procedure for adjusting water on brew day (and before)
o Planning
§ You are adjusting for ALL the water you are using on brew day (mash, sparge, and any kettle additions)
· Evaporation is considered in this already, so plan on dosing all the water you have
§ Figure out your chloride to sulfate ratio (this has the most impact on flavor)
· It is the RATIO that is important, so you need to know where you are starting from
· 0.0 to 0.5 Cl:SO4 ratio will be a very bitter beer
· 0.5 to 0.75 Cl:SO4 ratio will be a moderately bitter beer
· 0.75 to 1.25 Cl:SO4 ratio will be balanced malt/hop
· 1.25 to 1.5 Cl:SO4 ratio will favor the malt
· 1.5 to 2.0 Cl:SO4 ratio will be very malty
§ Shooting for 75 ppm calcium, which helps with yeast health and flocculation
· Calcium reduces RA, so you don’t want to go over board
· Calcium comes from gypsum, calcium carbonate, and chalk.
o Figure your sulfate to chloride first, then bump with chalk
§ Figure out RA
· This is what controls mash pH – where you are targeting 5.2
· The darker the beer, the more RA you need (up to 300 ppm for Russian Imperial Stouts)
o Don’t go higher than this, or it will taste minerally and thin
· Baking soda is your primary adjustment here
· This is the most complicated, so use a spreadsheet
o On brew day
§ Mix your salt additions for your mash water right in with the grain
§ Do NOT add salt additions to the sparge water directly
· pH is not low enough to make them dissolve
§ Instead, add them to the boil kettle at the start of the boil
§ If you are adding any water to the kettle during the boil (kettle too small) then make sure to add those salts at the beginning of the boil too
§ Check your pH, if you like, half way through the mash time, after the salts have had a chance to impact the pH
· Target is 5.2
5. Neat idea
o If you want to play with the sulfate to chloride ratio, try adding a pinch of a brewing salt directly to a pint or a half pint of beer
§ Stir it up and see how it changes the flavor
§ Calcium chloride – maltier
§ Gypsum – more bitter
6. Resources
o Brew Strong’s series on understanding water – Brewing Network
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While brewing water adjustments are a relatively advanced brewing topic, they can be effectively utilized with a little research and trial and error. Hopefully, the information presented above can act as a catalyst to beginning to work with water. Please leave a comment and let us know if it was helpful.
Cheers,
TW
Nice post, Tom. I've just started looking into my water chemistry after noticing a difference between two pale ales from the RIFT single hop pale ale experiment. To one I added some epsom salts, the other I forgot. I think I detected a definite crispness to the treated pale ale (my water is very soft and my Cl:SO4 ratio is waaaay on the malty end). I've been using the EZ Water Adjustment spreadsheet: http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/ and it's pretty awesome.
ReplyDeleteBil,
ReplyDeleteThanks for that comment and the link. It looks helpful and I will check it out.
Cheers,
Tom